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By Madeleine Kamman

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There are many brands of margarine on the market; I have found several unsalted brands to be good. Margarine will reduce your cholesterol intake but not your caloric intake, since it produces, per tablespoon, 2 more calories than butter. If you use margarine for dietary reasons, keep in mind that the [butter, cream, seasoning, wine] soft tub-type margarine should be reserved for a spread for bread and for dressing cooked vegetables. It should not be used for panfrying because it burns much too fast.

An expensive European wine· may be very good, but when one is dealing with less expensive bottles, it is often better to use the corresponding American product. Cheap French wines can be the result of unfortunate blending. Of course wines are produced in other countries besides France. Italy, Spain and Portugal, Germany, Austria and Hungary, Switzerland, Greece, South Africa, Chile-all these countries produce wine, and some of it is splendid. You will find suggestions for wines to accompany the main dishes that follow, and they come not only from [butter, cream, seasoning, wine] France and the United States but from some of these other places.

However, the peelings are very flavorful. Use them to flavor sauces and salad dressings; strain out the peels before serving. The canning brine can be added to sauces. Do not misuse truffles; they have no place in improperly cooked sauces or in so-called pates made out of liverwurst. BLACK TRUFFLES Buy the largest possible can; it will be proportionally less expensive. Store unused truffles individually in baby-food jars; cover the truffle with melted lard, Cognac, Madeira or port. Freeze truffles only if immersed in port or Madeira.

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