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By Sophie Dudemaine

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Include one triple crème, one hard, one blue, one goat, and one mild semisoft. Figure on at least a total of 2 lbs. of cheese for 10 people. Serve the cheeses at room temperature with an assortment of good breads and crackers. ) Some tangy mustard is a nice touch, and the ubiquitous apples, grapes, and pears add color. Be sure there is a knife and cutting board for the fruit. If you have baskets, use them for the breads and crackers. We like to set the cheeses on grape leaves in at basket trays.

Drain on paper toweling and let cool to lukewarm. Wrap a piece of bacon around each scallop and secure with a wooden toothpick or small skewer. Turn the oven to 400°. Arrange the brochettes on a foil-lined baking sheet and bake 8 minutes. Drain on paper toweling and serve hot with the mayonnaise as a dipping sauce. NOTES AND VARIATIONS The brochettes can be assembled in advance, refrigerated, and then baked as needed during the hors d’oeuvres period. Use any extra mayonnaise on sandwiches, chicken or seafood salads, or with smoked fish or cold shrimp.

Run under the broiler until the bacon is crisp. Cut toast rounds the diameter of a log of Montrachet. Top each round with a slice of Montrachet and a slice of kiwi. THREE-NOODLE APPETIZER Serves 6–8 This is one of the classic Frog appetizers from those earliest days. We can easily recall how delightfully intriguing its name looked printed ever so neatly on the blackboard menus we used at old Frog. Still just as popular today, this fun-to-eat ensemble of three di erent oriental noodles, each seasoned separately, bears heavily the in uence of the Thai cooks who worked at Frog and often concocted some fabulous noodle dish for a sta meal.

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